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A Guide to Modern Koi Pond Construction Drains box
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The next item to consider
now for the filter system is the drains box. This will be the compartment
where all the bottom drains from the filters, vortex chamber, and
filter overflow system are led. If you intend to fit a sand filter
at a later date then you will require an additional run of waste pipe to the drain box, and it may be easier to install this at the time of construction for use at a later date. As it is
usually difficult to add anything extra later then it could be worthwhile
installing a spare 2" pipe and blanking it off so that it is available
later if required. The other important item is a 4" drain from the
base of the drains box, and this is connected directly to the main
house drains. It is important to ensure that the pipe has a water
trap fitted and meets all the local building regulations. The photographs
on this page show four different drain boxes, two of them are still
under construction. |
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In
this case the three pipes and slide valves from the filter bays can be
seen. The white pipe is the drain from the vortex chamber, and the open
pipe above is the overflow from the last filter bay. The pipe to the main drain is seen in the centre, but the grid has yet to be placed in position. |
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This photo shows that instead of fitting a 4" pipe connected to the main drains then a submersible pump with float switch has been used. This is left switched on at all times, and as the water rises then the pump will automatically start pumping until the water level drops and the pump switches off.This type of system is necessary when the base of the drains box is lower than the main drains. The discharge from the pump is in this case fully piped in, but it is possible to use a flexible pipe. |
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This drain box is part of the fibreglass filter system described earlier. The three pond bottom drains are connected to the three four inch pipes which are fitted with stand pipes. The four ball valves with red handles are the drains from the filter bays. On the front right is the discharge from the sand filter when purging, and the two pipes at the top are drains overflows from the filter. |
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This is the drains supplied with the Nexus
units. The small valve drains the outer compartment, and the larger valve the centre part. |
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In this case the three slide valves from the filter bay drains have been led into one common manifold, and this has been taken to the drains box. The pipe end of this manifold is actually visible in the drains box in the photo below, and is marked A. TIP. Many people do recommend that you use ball valves for the drains as they are much more reliable. They are quite a bit more expensive than the standard gate valves, but certainly a good investment as they are in regular use. |
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The three pipes in this case come from the same type of filter system as the photo above, but as there is not sufficient room to easily get up the side of the filter to the valves a separate pipe has been run from each filter drain and the slide valves are fitted close to the drain box. Both systems are fully acceptable and shows what needs to be done to fit in with the particular situation you are faced with. The only practical difference is that in this case more pipe is used and so the cost will be higher. |
| In the case of the examples shown above the main drain is situated lower than the base of the drains box and so there is no problem. However in many cases especially when the pond is built below ground this is not always the case so let us now have a look at this. | |
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The
drains box needs to be below the level of the base of the vortex chamber
and the filters so that they can be completely drained out when required
for cleaning. With the depth of some of the vortex chambers then this requires the drains box to be say five or six feet below the ground level. To enable the water to be removed to the drain then a submersible pump can be installed in the drains box. This should be of the type that has a float and so will automatically start when the water reaches a predetermined depth. Most koi-keepers use a flexible hose to pump the water, but a fixed pipe can also be used if circumstances allow. In the sketch the pump is shown on a flat base, but if the drains box is cast in concrete then often a sump is added so that the pump sits in this and the floor of the drains box will be pumped completely dry. |
| The sort of sump pump best suited to pumping waste foul water from filters is a “solids handling” pump or a “cutter” pump. | |
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This is a drain's box being built into the floor of a filter housing. A pump with a float switch will be added later. Tip. It is a good idea to get the iron grating before you start building the chamber as then you can make it the right size. |
On the next page we will look at Pumps & Systems. |
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This page updated January 2006 |
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This website started with a booklet which I made up originally for the help of those members of the BKKS - South Wales Section who were intending to start building a koi pond, and as the website has expanded more information and articles from other people have been included. This is for general guidance only, and we do not take any responsibility for problems that might occur by following these ideas. It is important that you check out everything in your area, and check on local laws and rules that may apply. |
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